Red's Savoy Pizza   

It may surprise you to hear the name of this place mentioned almost as many times as you bring up the subject of pizza. You'll understand why when you finally venture into the aging east side of downtown St. Paul to try a Savoy pie. A lot of St. Paul pizza is made the old way, zesty and un-prettified by trends, and here is a prime example. You can order your thin crust with traditional toppings or ask them to throw on a couple of your personal preferences, if you dare. Either way, the pizza comes out loaded up pretty heavy with ingredients, sliced in squares (as required by traditional Pizza Law), tasting like it did in the days when everyone ''went out'' for pizza, and before cholesterol was a household word. Families with dissenters will also find pastas, salads and sandwiches on the menu. The decor is all middle-class barroom, to be sure, with booths and tables and a big TV that draws sports fans. East St. Paulites have their own Savoy takeout location, and a small Newport branch is perfect for a stop on your way back from Red Wing. -- John Sharpe