With all the hundreds of places that claim to have the ''World's Greatest Burger,'' Matt's Bar is one of only a handful that might be right. Matt's has all the trappings of a great neighborhood bar: well-stocked jukebox, loyal local following, super-friendly staff and cold beer to wash it all down.

What about those hamburgers? They're all delicious, but the real star is the Juicy Lucy -- a cheeseburger with the cheese actually sealed inside the meat. The cheese forms a (very hot) pool of tasty goo inside the burger as it cooks, and you'll do well to heed the posted warnings -- "Fear the Cheese!" -- and wait a few minutes to avoid a messy burn. Matt's serves a few hundred of these legends every week, which explains another posted witticism: ''No ice, no plates ... we blew the budget on napkins.'' The bar is beer only. -- Jon Hilgers