Zuni Cafe   

1658 Market St
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-552-2522
www.zunicafe.com

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The trend among foodies is to skip going to Zuni in favor of cooking from the book by Zuni's Judy Rogers. Most of the unfussy fare can be reproduced by a good cook, but then you'll miss the Zuni experience: people-watching windows, a wood-burning oven, the copper bar with its floor-to-ceiling bottles and the warm yellow lighting. Then there's the food: Rustic, Italian-influenced American that still sets an example some 25 years after its opening. The buzz at this mid-Market spot centers on fresh oysters, silky Caesar salad, roasted-to-order chicken and juicy burgers (late night and lunch only). The much-vaunted roast chicken for two is pricey and heavenly -- juicy, with crisp skin and drippings sopped up by bread salad. Ditto the burger, which comes with fancy accoutrements like house-made ketchup and micro-greens. Burgers arrive on focaccia bread, which soaks up the tasty juices perfectly but needs to be eaten with utensils. Start with the raw bar's wonderfully fresh oysters, clams and scallops, then move to more complex dishes, where the kitchen shines. Risotto, rabbit, braised oxtails and the like are paired with seductive sides, often made from unusual ingredients like nettles or black cabbage. Go for the well-selected cheese course over the desserts, though house-made granita is a nice finish. The weekend brunch is likewise notable. Peak hours mean big crowds, but the numbers taper off after noon or so. The kitchen is open all afternoon, and late risers can savor orange-currant scones, fresh fruit and amazing eggs.