Rubicon Restaurant   

558 Sacramento St
San Francisco, CA 94111
415-434-4100
www.sfrubicon.com

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You may spot a few celebs among the suits -- after all, Francis Ford Coppola, Robin Williams and Robert De Niro co-own the joint. But that's not the point at Rubicon: The real stars here are world-class sommelier Larry Stone, rising-star chef Stuart Brioza and dessert whiz Nicole Krasinki. Warm wood and glass by Jeff Chihuly give a mellow vibe to the two-level spot, but there's nothing laid-back about the offbeat, rewarding menu. "Crispy skatewing with turnips, cashews, soybeans and Gewurztraminer-ginger butter" sounds confused; on the plate, it sings. A deep smoked chicken broth is zinged by lemon-sage dumplings, while rose geranium creme caramel is united with its soul mate: a sunburst of apricots and Muscat de beaumes de venise. Don't bypass the wine. Proficient servers and the sommelier, can steer you through the staggeringly long (and multiple award-winning) list, or you can order wine pairings on one of three prix-fixe menus. The description of Burgundies reads like a textbook on the subject rather than a list of available bottles, while the "40 under $45" section is by no means an afterthought.