RNM Restaurant   

598 Haight St
San Francisco, CA 94117
415-551-7900
www.rnmrestaurant.com

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Justine Miner, the opening sous chef at Dine, founded RNM in homage to her late father. It bears his initials, and a fancy take on White Castle cheeseburgers appears on the menu to honor her dad's favorite. The burger may evoke fast food, but the rest of the place sure doesn't: What most recently was a Pasta Pomodoro is now a trendy lounge with high ceilings and purple walls, tall chain-mail curtains dividing the small space and metal shades keeping it secluded from the busy lower Haight. Some plates are overpriced for their size, even considering the high quality of ingredients (San Daniele prosciutto, Serrano ham). Others are too busy -- delicious grilled romaine is overwhelmed by hazelnuts, pears and blue cheese. Stick to simpler dishes, like heirloom tomato napoleon with mozzarella and a nice cornmeal crust. A side of creamed spinach is strongly seasoned and satisfying, and the "White Castle" burger is miles better than its namesake. Another good choice is a chicken pot pie with fresh veggies and a crust that instantly melts in your mouth. The same crust, lightly sweetened, comes back in a peach and blackberry pie, one of many strong desserts. Service, however, is weak. The space is so small that four diners are crowded into tables for two. The owners should invest in wire plate stackers or bigger tables to avoid precarious plate placement. Servers are overly casual and seem spacey, though pleasant. Strange acoustics allow the bartender to hear the conversation at many tables, an invasion of privacy but also a godsend when a wine-thirsty party of four can't find its waitress for 20 minutes at a time. -- Julie Ross