Pesce LLC   

Ruggero Gadaldi is from Bergamo, Italy -- but his heart belongs to Venice. The chef/owner of Pesce (and its well-regarded sister, Antica Trattoria, down the street) loves "cicchetti," traditional Venetian bar bites. In case you hadn't guessed by the name (which means "fish"), most little plates are seafood. They're generally under $10 and generous for the price, but you will want to eat several. Start with a shot of oyster, cucumber and horseradish, then go for the delicious platter of house-smoked salmon, trout and sturgeon. Other contenders are better-than-average crab cakes, a tangy "cioppino" and a rich, black squid-ink risotto with grilled calamari. Desserts and cheeses are whimsical treats, like crunchy biscotti with sweet vin santo or pear slices with gorgonzola. "Sgroppino," a fresh lemon granita sloshed with more prosecco, is zingy and bubbly. If that appeals, stop by Sunday night, when you can get a prix-fixe of a glass of Italian "vermentino," a bowl of cioppino and a dish of "sgroppino" for under $20.