One Market Restaurant   

1 Market St
San Francisco, CA 94105
415-777-5577
www.onemarket.com

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A huge glass box of a restaurant where Market Street hits the Embarcadero, One Market has a power-upscale feel -- where presentations, parties and power lunches take place. But regulars come for chef Bradley Ogden, who created the Lark Creek/Yankee Pier empire. One Market is Ogden's flagship, where his "local, market-fresh American" food dazzles. Come hungry: Portions are huge. An appetizer of perfectly cooked hush puppies with gleaming figs inside could itself satisfy a dainty appetite, as could a devastatingly fluffy petrale sole souffle. Larger plates are organized into daily roasts (Thursday is goat day) and main courses, both of which arrive with side dishes; grilled entrees, for which you order sides; or full dinners for two. Prepare to share. Everything's meticulously prepared, like melt-in-your-mouth cherry tomatoes, or bacon-smoky, creamy corn, or intense, refreshing grape sorbet in melon juice. While One Market's cuisine approaches perfection, prices are sky-high, the ambience is chilly and the casual service can be slightly sloppy. For the best experience, make advance reservations for the chef's table, a tasting menu served in the kitchen, which has a great view and includes a course the guests help cook. -- Julie Ross