Oliveto Restaurant   

5655 College Ave
Oakland, CA 94618
510-547-5356
www.oliveto.com

Directions   Email   Send to Cell   Make a Reservation

Oliveto is a destination any time, largely because of its hand-made Italian ingredients. If you can, go for the annual special menus in tribute to truffles white and black, tomatoes, domestic olive oil and balsamic vinegar (also made at the restaurant). But the best menu of all is the annual "whole hog" extravaganza. Chef-owner Paul Bertolli, a Chez Panisse vet, is old-school about curing his own meat, using traditional Italian methods, seasonings -- and parts. "Whole hog" means just that; you'll be amazed at how delicious feet, jowls and ears can taste. Like Chez Panisse, Oliveto is separated into a more casual, less expensive cafe and an elegant restaurant. At the cafe, snag deliciously wood-fired pizzas and sandwiches suited to breakfast or lunch, while dinner's mostly pizza, hand-made pasta and a few simple entrees. Upstairs is a formal Italian ristorante. Start with antipasti or salad -- all creative combos of fresh veggies and traditional meats or sauces. You might see fresh sardines in piquant Venetian saor sauce, or a raw beef (carne cruda) salad. Move on to house-made salumi -- pates and cold cuts -- then a "first course" of soup or starch, like house-cured cod ravioli with new potatoes. Follow with a "second course" of meat or fish, simply and robustly grilled or spit-roasted. Make sure to share everything, since you'll also want to try a side dish, an assortment of Italian cheese or even a balsamic vinegar tasting. Desserts and wine are equally good and Italian. Clear your palate with inventive sorbet like grapefruit-Campari, or go for something more decadent like wine-roasted figs or profiteroles (or one of several grappas). -- Julie Ross