Luella   

1896 Hyde St
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-674-4343
www.luellasf.com

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When the founder of Mission mainstay Andalu moved to Russian Hill, he matched the quieter neighborhood with a serene dcor of bamboo and cool glass, and a more grown-up appetizers-entrees-desserts setup. A short but vivid menu bounces from French (lusciously creamy salt cod brandade, crispy sweetbreads, mussels with Pernod) to Italian (housemade pappardelle with lamb, Meyer lemon risotto) to American (Coca-cola braised pork, seared beef Wellington with puff pastry). Strong flavors mean some entrees are a bit much for one, but perfect for couples or groups to share. Luella's wine list is charming. Affordable, approachable and surprising, it makes you an instant expert in some very good wines. Instead of a Napa cab, go for a subtler dolcetto di Dogliani; instead of chard, try a peachy albarino -- if you need more guidance, the casual but smart staff seems genuinely happy to help.