La Taqueria   

2889 Mission St
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-285-7117

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As the name implies, La Taqueria differs from the usual Mission joint in its focus on the taco -- a far more authentic Mexican dish, and one that is much less forgiving of tough meat or less-than-ripe produce. And here you'll find only the best ingredients, including carne asada (grilled beef) that's slightly spicy and always juicy, excellent house-made salsa, a griddled corn tortilla and spiced pinto beans that could be a meal in themselves. Burritoheads either loathe La Taqueria or love it. Some complain that charging for extras means that for less money you can get a meal that's twice as large and just as tasty, adding that the buzz on this place equals bad service and lines out the door, especially for lunch. But LT lovers point to the lard-laden tortilla slightly crisped on the grill, the delicious beans, the avocado slices in place of guacamole and the lack of rice as filler to illustrate burrito perfection. Nobody can deny the two mysterious pulls of La Taqueria, though: the tender, well-seasoned meat (carne asada and carnitas, deep-fried shredded pork, are most popular, though fans of tongue and grilled chicken also abound) and the delicious aguas frescas, an addictive fruit drink. Try the mango or the melon as you wait for your meal on a sunny day under the arcaded mini-patio -- if you can find a seat. -- Julie Ross