La Suite   

100 Brannan St.
San Francisco, CA 94107
415-593-5900
www.lasuitesf.com

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Make sure to request a table in the back at La Suite's brassy, glassy and drafty Embarcadero digs. Otherwise, conversation will be trumped by the roaring Botox-and-khaki crowd at the front bar or the clanging open kitchen. The buzz in the room stems from the buzz on the restaurant -- it's an upscale venture by Chez Papa/Baraka/Plouf entrepreneur Joycelyn Bulow, in the former site of trendy Slanted Door. Big spenders can go to town with pricey entrees and options like a huge seafood tower and heavy-hitting wines. Daredevils can choose bone marrow, sweetbreads, pig trotters, or foie gras -- all done very well. But more ordinary fare can be uneven, like bland mussels. Stick to basics from the wood oven, like the good French-style pizza and whole roasted fish. The sommelier can guide you to an appropriate bottle from the well-chosen wine list, and as La Suite doesn't muck around with small portions, two reasonably hungry people can share plates and be satisfied.