La Folie   

Even if you can afford it, don't take a casual date to La Folie. The colorful harlequin decor (with marionettes hanging from the cloud-painted ceiling) is light-hearted enough, but the menu is all heavy-handed romance. And after tasting this food, you could fall in love with pretty much anyone.When it opened, celeb chef-owner Roland Passot's restaurant served more rustic fare; these days, it has been refined, though it still reflects the hearty, garlicky traditions of his hometown, Lyon. Parsley and garlic soup with escargots and shiitake mushrooms, roast quail and squab and the seafood tartare (like a gorgeously oily mackerel or a shining tuna and lobster) are simply perfect. The butter-poached lobster may well be the best single dish in the city. Of course, the most romantic act of all is to surrender yourself to the chef. Prix-fixe options include the discovery menu (small tastings of several menu choices) a vegetable lovers' menu (vegetarians, rejoice) and the nine-course chef's menu prepared by Passot himself (who, after more than a dozen years, is still involved in the daily goings-on). For dessert, stick with sorbets and coulis, or the lovely petits fours that come with the check. -- Julie Ross