Iluna Basque   

701 Union St
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-402-0011
www.ilunabasque.com

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Defecting first from Basque Country itself, then from a stint at Basque restaurant Piperade, Mattin Noblia now serves the trendy fare in his own space -- not bad for a guy barely into his twenties. Upping the hip factor even further, everything's scaled down to tapas size at Iluna, a moody red North Beach room in which rustic wood furniture meets stainless-steel fixtures. The small plates idea isn't just a hip schtick. Though Basque food is usually served family-style, its vibrant flavors (and saltiness) can be overwhelming in large portions. The smaller size also means more to choose from: the menu effortlessly zooms from classic (piperade, garlic soup) to more Spanish (gazpacho, salt cod cazuela) to more French (duck rilette, white bean and pig feet cassoulet) -- and almost everything on the menu is top-notch. The "small plate, large bill" axiom applies, but the opportunity to taste so much is worth the expense. To spare your wallet, stop in for a cocktail (or glass of Basque wine from the very good list) and a nosh, or shop up late for inventive desserts like pineapple "carpaccio." Be warned: the no-reservations policy can mean a long wait.