Harris' Restaurant   

The dry-aged beef in Harris' window is a paean to the cow -- and the theme continues inside, at butcher counter, the ultrasoft leather banquettes and the cattle in the mural by San Francisco's Barnaby Conrad. High ceilings, burnished walls and massive chandeliers -- plus cozy smaller rooms called "the library" and "the boardroom" -- give Harris' a proudly old-school vibe, augmented by quiet, efficient service. It's all about pricey but well-executed classics here: you'll see icy Caesar salads and icier martinis (with overage in a miniature bucket) -- along with oysters, red wine and whopping steaks. Porterhouse, filet mignon, New York or Kobe ribeye come with a potato and sauteed veggies. Unless you're splurging on the Kobe, which should be eaten plain to appreciate its subtle flavor, top it off with Bearnaise or brandy sauce -- or opt for steak Diane, grilled filet mignon with cognac-shallot demi-glace. The wine list is strong on California cabernet, but contains good zinfandels and Bordeaux and interesting varietals like amarone, dolcetto and cabernet franc. Desserts are equally classic but less harmonious; opt instead to finish with coffee, cognac or both.