Greens Restaurant   

For some time, Greens set a national standard for vegetarian dining. It simultaneously narrowed the Cal-cuisine principles with which Chez Panisse rocked the culinary scene down to just ultra-fresh veggies while exploring new territory with veg dishes from around the world. Delectable baked goods and creative brunchery rounded out the menu. Nothing's really changed -- except, maybe, for the competition. Now there are edgier, raw-food-centered veggie restaurants for Greens to contend with, plus more vegetarian dishes (and entire tasting menus) offered by creative chefs around the Bay. That doesn't mean you should skip this place, especially if you're an ovo-lacto vegetarian seeking a romantic night out: The ambience alone is worth a trip. Greens sits right on the marina, and a giant picture window maximizes the seascape, from the docked sailboats in the foreground to Marin, the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and the serene sky and water beyond. The kitchen still turns out deft fare ranging from stuffed peppers to potato curry, and grilled veggies and monster salads are consistently good. Greens also serves up the best vegetarian (though not vegan) Sunday brunch anywhere, including amazing buttermilk scones. The wine list has a good selection of the requisite Rieslings, pinots gris and sancerres -- though not, surprisingly, any Gruner Vertliner, the wine dubbed most vegetable-friendly by many experts. These days, Greens almost seems to be morphing into a fancy takeout joint, with extended open hours at the to-go counter. It's becoming a fine San Francisco tradition to grab an affordable, delicious breakfast, lunch or dinner for a waterfront picnic. Get there in off-peak hours to avoid lines. -- Julie Ross