Gary Danko   

800 North Point Fisherman's Wharf
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-749-2060
www.garydanko.com

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Attention to detail defines Gary Danko: luxury soap in the bathroom, giant flower arrangements set off by simple oak decor, your car waiting for you as you walk out. Unlike some other chefs, Danko shows off his best in the five-course tasting menu -- or choose your own three-, four- or five-course meal from dozens of options (all preceded by amuses-bouches). Whether you prefer bigger portions of fewer dishes or a parade of flavors, you'll be happy here; finicky eaters have choices. Then there's the food itself, modernized French that's close to flawless. Glazed oysters with osetra caviar are a harmony of silky sauce and the briny blast of just-shucked mollusks. Warm lamb's tongue with saffron potatoes and honey-lavender dressing is a delicate balance of subtle flavor. Many plates are permanently on the menu, so you may return for those oysters, the excellent seared foie gras, the chocolate souffle with vanilla and chocolate sauces. Two things not to miss are wine and cheese. The wine cellar includes some 1,300 selections, including many first-growth Bordeaux. If you're overwhelmed by the choice, ask for a pairing; for a fixed fee they'll deliver good-value wines matched to the food. The much-vaunted cheese cart contains some 15-20 choices from around the world, from triple-cream to extra stinky. Service is leisurely timed, though extremely attentive. Danko's staff is knowledgeably chatty, not the sort that melts into the background. If you like things lower-key (or if you want to drop in without reservations), the menu's available at the small bar, which stays open for drinks until midnight.