Espetus   

Espetus is San Francisco's first stab (literally) at a Brazilian rodizio churrascaria, in which fire-grilled meat is carved onto your plate from giant, sword-like skewers -- spicing dinner with danger. The food is also a thrill: The next skewer could contain top sirloin, roasted pineapple, chicken hearts, sausage, lamb, ham, turkey or something entirely different. Swivel the marker to "yes, please" green or "no thanks" red as the meat parade goes by. If a slice is oversalted or overcooked, just set it aside; if your plate overflows, exchange it. "All you can eat" also applies to the buffet: Sticky rice and beans play off the salty meat and zingy salads to keep your palate sharp; feijoada, black bean stew, shows up on weekends. Dessert and drinks aren't included in the fixed dinner price. Save room for papaya cream with cassis sauce. The wine list is outrageously overpriced; go for minty capirinhas or sangria instead. The dcor is unremarkable, but the loud music, the lack of soundproofing, diners popping up to hit the buffet and smiling waiters weaving through tables balancing skewers keep things lively. For a quieter (and cheaper) meal, go for lunch on a weekday.