Coi   

373 Broadway
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-393-9000
www.coirestaurant.com

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Relax. You're at Coi (pronounced "kwa"). Daniel Patterson has named his latest endeavor with an arcane French word that means tranquil, and the menu and decor aspire to be exactly that. Formerly of Elisabeth Daniel and Frisson, Patterson is well respected throughout the Bay Area, having made a name for himself with his froths and foams, his obsession with the intersection of aromatherapy and food, and his somewhat esoteric approach to cooking. The chef is as intent on blending textures, taste and presentation to produce an experience or a statement about that experience as he is on producing a tasty dinner. Patterson uses ingredients to great effect: Delicious squash soup is served with cocoa mascarpone, walnut brittle, and fresh cippollini onions; short ribs are peppered and fashioned into a "steak" served with potato foam, baby dandelion greens and a red-wine vinaigrette. Just as Patterson blends ingredients so the restaurant mixes styles. Though the entire space is decorated with the same earthy-Zen ambiance, complete with moss-like fuzz, branches, and the taupes and greens that complement such things, the restaurant is divided into two areas that offer two very different experiences. While the main dining room is formal and offers only a full tasting for $105 or a prix fixe 4-course meal for $75 (great for a special occasion), the long lounge at the front of the restaurant offers comfy banquettes and a limited but delicious, reasonably priced menu, including notables like the grilled vegetable gazpacho ($6), udon noodles with a delicious mushroom dashi broth ($14), whole roasted hoffman chicken ($18) and a selection of fantastic desserts off the main dining room menu for $10 each (our favorites are the cheese plate, the warm chocolate tarte, and the strawberry bombe). The wine list is modest but well selected.