Citron   

5484 College Ave
Oakland, CA 94618
510-653-5484
www.citronrestaurant.biz

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Owners Craig Thomas and Brian Marks (both formerly of Wolfdales in Lake Tahoe) have created a cozy little bistro sporting friendly service and contemporary French/Mediterranean cuisine. The frequently changing menu is typically comprised of a warming soup (such as a creamy pure of parsnips textured with Dungeness crab meat and flavored with curry oil), an innovative salad or two (perhaps a tussle of celery root and butter lettuce, decorated with bacon lardons and apple chips, all married together in a mustard dressing), and other enticements. Entres might proffer a tagine of petit poulet (chicken) accompanied by chickpeas, turnips, crispy fried onions and a little salad of fresh pea shoots, or gratined-herbed cannelloni filled with chard, ricotta and perfect baby artichokes, in a woodsy mushroom broth. House-made desserts frequently showcase seasonal fruits and arent overly sweet. A short wine list includes selections from France and California; several are offered by the glass.