Circolo   

500 Florida St
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-553-8521
www.circolosf.com

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In dot-com times, scenesters flocked to enormous, ultra-chic Gordon's House of Fine Eats. Post-crash, they sampled great Nuevo Latino at more modest Limon. Is it an economic indicator that Limon's chefs opened Circolo in Gordon's old space? Judging by the dcor, yes: Two bars, two lounges and a dining room are tricked out with mesh curtains, bamboo and a "wall of water" -- as well as DJ music and a crowd of fashionistas sipping designer drinks and noshing until 2AM. A large menu of mostly small plates menu mixes Nuevo Latino with lots of Asian and an indulgent bent. Your meal could easily span the globe: a sexy trio of duck breast, confit and foie gras, Thai snapper with curry sauce and fried plaintains. A more-is-better approach to seasonings sometimes goes overboard (everything that can be roasted, smoked, spiced or spiked is) but the little plates go well with drinks -- especially treats like stuffed chiles and oysters from the short bar menu. Rushed, often curt service, crowds and high prices will remind some of the uglier side of the dot-com era, but if management can soften the rough edges, foodies and pretty people alike will be happy at Circolo.