Ana Mandara   

891 Beach Street
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-771-6800
www.anamandara.com

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The super-high ceiling with klieg lights and towering "colonial Vietnam" fronts scream "Hollywood" -- and Don Johnson does own the place, launching the upscale Vietnamese spot when "Nash Bridges" was a hit. Despite the showy Ghirardelli Square location, the menu and service feel intimate -- as if a talented family set up shop in a Burbank back lot. Ana Mandara really is a family affair: The chefs, both of whom are from Vietnam, are married. Many dishes are traditional, tweaked with luxury ingredients: crispy rolls with crab and shiitakes; Mekong basa fish with spicy lemon sauce. Other plates are more French: Scallops arrive perfectly cooked; seared lobster with cognac-lobster roe sauce is silky and rich. Desserts run from ordinary (lemon mousse) to surprisingly creative (sorbet of the acquired-taste fruit durian amid mango soup). If you're babysitting tourists, Ana Mandara's a pleasant refuge from the neighborhood. The lounge overlooks the entire restaurant, often hosts live jazz, and pours strong tropical cocktails; you can also drop in for a cheaper weekday lunch (dinner is pricey). The gorgeous private room is good for group meals, with lots of flexibility in menu and price options. -- Julie Ross