Acme Chop House   

It would take an extraordinary restaurant to become a viable destination within AT&T Park during the off season. Enter Traci Des Jardins, one of Northern California's most famous chefs and the owner of Jardiniere. If anyone could pull this expensive piece of real estate out of SoMa's economic rubble, she could -- right? Maybe, but her Acme Chophouse needs more training to make it to the major leagues. The restaurant offers high-quality steaks, chops and comfort food -- far higher than the usual ballpark fare. Meats are hormone- and antibiotic- free; some cuts come from grass-fed animals. The quality is reflected in the prices -- which are out of the park: An extremely pricey hot dog from the bar menu is the cheapest option. There's a hefty 14-ounce New York steak, a bone- in 22-ounce rib eye and dry-aged lamb chops. The lamb chops, which top the price list, are tasty but overly salted. Unfortunately, much of the meat is tough. Starters also suffer. A wedge of iceberg lettuce has a too-acidic dressing, a Caesar lacks zip; and artichokes remain a mystery since they weren't delivered to the table. Garlic bread comes so saturated with butter that it requires a spittoon. Wise diners will stick to seafood. Halibut, a fish of the day, was excellent. Unlike the almost- naked steaks and chops, the fish came served on a bed of spinach with a delightful blend of gold and red beets. The raw bar offers an assortment of beautifully chilled seafood available by the piece or on an iced platter, served with a variety of sauces. Desserts are uneven. Opt for the outstanding toasted-coconut banana cream pie. Service is friendly but can be slow, which may be intolerable on a game day.