1550 Hyde   

1550 Hyde St
San Francisco, CA 94109
415-775-1550
www.1550hyde.com

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Ask about the decor of 1550 Hyde and you'll get stories worthy of a TV decorating show: The old red Italian marble bar was scavenged from a downtown firm; the Eames-like chairs came from a European school via eBay; the manager dropped 15 pounds painting the place; in the process he found a bar napkin hinting at a previous incarnation as "Pat Patterson's Cavalcade." The storytelling vibe comes through in the monthly wine flight, whimsically and well-chosen. The brief menu changes based on what's in season, but fans of the much-missed Universal Cafe will be pleased to see some staples popping up on chef Peter Erickson's menu, like perfectly cooked roasted chicken and a crumbly-crusted, just-sweet-enough maple syrup tart with creme fraiche. Entrees are stronger than starters; stick to simpler offerings -- lettuce dressed with Banyuls vinaigrette, sauteed chicken livers, daily soup -- to begin with. Also to avoid are pastas, not the kitchen's strong point. But lovely meat and fish dishes and delicious desserts (all cooked by Erickson, believe it or not) and charming, though slightly rushed, service mean you won't notice the slight culinary bobbles. -- Julie Ross