D Z Akin's   

Most eateries in San Diego with a "deli" slapped onto the end of the name are really just sandwich shops trying to gain a little gastronomic credibility. The true delis are few and far between, with even fewer deserving of recognition. Of those, there are only a handful truly deserving of the appellation "Jewish delicatessen": Milton's in Del Mar, City Deli in Hillcrest and longtime local favorite D.Z. Akin's. The "D" is for "Debbie" and the "Z" is for "Zvika." Together they're the proprietors (along with son Nathan Akins) who run the East County landmark. Housed for more than two decades in a rather nondescript retail building, D.Z. Akin's serves up sandwiches (more than 100 varieties), brisket, chopped liver, kreplach, knishes, matzo balls the size of baseballs, real ice cream sodas and (of course) a chicken soup that's just like Nana's (brazenly listed as "Jewish penicillin" on the menu). All meals are accompanied by a vat of dill pickles (which you can also order fried), and breakfast is served all day long. Be forewarned: This place is for power noshing, so portions are huge. Decorated with autographed headshots of local celebs, D.Z. Akin's is a pleasant place for a sit-down meal. Expect to wait for a table, except during the very slowest times. Takeout also does a brisk business, so call ahead to avoid a wait. The bakery alone is worthy of a drop-in, with huge eclairs and brownies beckoning from glass cases alongside cheesecake, strudel, macaroons and the ubiquitous black & white cookies of 'Seinfeld' fame.