Sam Miller's Restaurant   

1210 East Cary St
Richmond, VA 23219
804-644-5465
www.sammillers.com

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Named for local restaurant legend Sam Miller, an emigre from Poland who operated Sam's Exchange Cafe in the Shockoe Slip area at the turn of the 20th century, this well-known steak-and-seafood house celebrates 30 years in the biz. It was recently renovated with a spiffy new oyster bar and still retains the low-lit, wood-burnished ambience of its former days as a spacious warehouse. The Old Richmond atmosphere is the real attraction of Sam's. A meal here is more noteworthy for its romantic aura and people-watching qualities than for truly memorable food. The fare -- Maine lobsters, prime rib, Chesapeake Bay delicacies, Halifax chicken -- can often be good to excellent (especially the crab soup, Cajun chicken salad and stuffed flounder), but disappointing in relation to its steep prices. What patrons really pay for is the chance to sit in a very cool locale in the heart of historic Shockoe Slip -- for the experience, reservations are a smart idea. An upstairs banquet room is available for large parties and functions, and live music is occasionally featured. -- Don Harrison