Years ago, when the sea-going boys got a bit of leave they usually came ashore and headed straight to Mary's. The fact that it was the first topless bar in Oregon (or nearby Washington and Idaho, for that matter) probably had something to do with it. Mary's Club is still owned by Roy Keller, the man who started it all. Now the club is home to an all-nude review managed with zest by Keller's daughter. Today Mary's is part Portland history, part good live entertainment and a place actually bordering on respectability. Twenty-five dancers work the stage while nearly three dozen beers flow from the bar. A Mexican- inspired menu, good wine selection and a pool table round out the offerings. -- Joe Kurmaskie