A throwback is what it is: green, trim, old-moneyed, and occupying a prime corner of newly hip Hoboken real estate. (It's also related to the two same-named Manhattan steakhouses in Midtown.) It's all about the steaks here, of course: sirloin, porterhouse, filet mignon, and cuts of rib eye predominate, sided with the obligatory creamed spinach, if you wish, and preceded by such winning starters as clams casino, French onion soup, or crab cakes. They also serve seafood and lamb, but if you're not a steak lover, what are you doing here? Finish with panna cotta, strawberry-rhubarb crisp, key lime mousse served in martini glass, or sorbet, but if you order the latter, your buddies will tease you mercilessly. Yes, they bottle the steak sauce in whiskey flasks and sell it. There's a weekend pianist (and room to dance), plus live weekly jazz filling the dining rooms as well. Best of all, the deep wood-paneled is a lovely place for a martini or a shot. That other Frankie -- the local boy, the one named Sinatra -- would be proud. -- Paul Karr (Photo: Paul Karr)