This small, clean restaurant fills up nightly. The menu is limited, of course, but what needs to be there is there. The salads are basic, but one appetizer is especially worthy of note. If you get one of Brooklyn's delicious and enormous Strombolis (the small one that they say feeds two will satiate twice that), you'll have a hint of what's in store when the pizza course arrives. Fresh mozzarella cheese (the kind that comes in water, not in bags), delicious tomato sauce and some prime fillings are wrapped in a crisp, flavorful shell of pizza crust. As for the pizza itself, Brooklyn's tasty crust rises to a firm, bubbled crispness in the brick oven, and the fresh mozzarella and tomato sauce are as powerful a one-two punch as Jersey has ever seen. The elements are all so good that toppings become extraneous -- the simpler the pie, the better it is. Yes, the toppings are all fresh and primo quality, but your basic plain pie is a beautiful thing. -- D.J. Roth