Wondee Siam II   

813 9th Ave
New York, NY 10019
917-286-1726

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A more spacious outpost of a much-loved carryout place just a block away, this Hell's Kitchen Thai bistro offers the same reliable Thai standards in a roomy but basic dining room. While the original Wondee Siam is well-known for not holding back on the spice, reports from II suggest that the chef has lost his nerve a bit, holding back on the fire that makes Thai food so potent. It's a welcome surprise to see several catfish dishes among the plentiful entrees ($9 and up); the fact that this fish is frequently prepared in Southeast Asia is usually lost on American Thai restaurants. And the soup selections range from basic Tom Yum (the traditional Thai hot and sour), to a Tom Ka, rich with coconut and lime. Less wonderful, however, are the other additions to the menu, tacky ersatz Thai meals with cutesy names like "Squid in Love," "Two Buddies," and "Shrimp on Fire" -- the last of which, though not spicy, will arrive at your table actually on fire. -- Dan Kois