Sushi Yasuda Ltd   

204 E 43rd St
New York, NY 10017
212-972-1001
www.sushiyasuda.com

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Fatty, fatty, fat, fat. In any other Gotham eatery, those would be words of death. But in Naomichi Yasuda's widely praised Zen-temple of fish worship, they are the cornerstones to eternal happiness. Of course, with about eight different grades of toro (succulent, fatty underbelly of tuna), it's not surprising to find Nobu chef Matsuhisa secretly taking notes in the corner. The Midtown marine ministry is purposely designed to soften the ride: bamboo-blonde and no clutter allow exclusive diners to eat up in a serene environment. Other specialties trawled from the large menu include white and freshwater eel, as well as seki-saba (rare Japanese mackerel) and white salmon. Yasuda's menu changes frequently, so best to leave yourself in his samurai-like hands and let the master decide what to feed you. You will not be disappointed. -- Yon Motskin