Saravanaas   

This South Indian restaurant -- named for the Hindu goddess -- takes the middle ground in Curry Hill. Four chefs brought over from India man the kitchen that churns out only vegetarian fare. Don't expect the varied Indian food menu here that is so typical of this area. Saravannaas's focus narrows in on the dosa and the overall food presentation. Made on a six-foot long dosa top, these crisp, yet spongy crepes arrive airy and large, filled with a potato-and-onion mixture presented on over-sized silver saucers with indentions for the coconut, mint and tomato chutneys. All dosas arrive with a side serving of sambhar, a very spicy lentil soup. The rest of the menu dances around a bread theme, from fried lentil flour donut appetizers to the bread corner with poori and channa batura.