Ruby Foo's Times Square   

1626 Broadway
New York, NY 10019
212-489-5600
www.brguestrestaurants.com

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It may take a little extra kung-fu fighting to squeeze out a reservation at this gold-hued, massively sensational couplet of restaurants, but boy is it worth it. Part Silk Road mystique and part Charlie Chan kitsch, Ruby Foo 's is the kind of pan-Asian wonderland where eating a meal is like riding the Orient Express through a Hollywood back lot of black-belt movies set in Las Vegas. A huge neon sign, grand circling staircase, bold mah-jongg-tiled walls and a seemingly endless three-level capacity gives your reasonably priced lunch or dinner a warm, bubbly and exotic feel. Owner Stepen Hanson -- who also runs Blue Water Grill, Isabella's, Atlantic Grill and others -- has concocted a pleasing menu that tracks through Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisine vibrantly highlighted by sesame-crusted tuna, tamarind-glazed tuna and seven-flavor beef with ginger mashed potatoes. There's also dim sum, sushi and a dessert menu lengthier than the Great Wall of China, as well as a palatial cocktail list fit for birthdays, anniversaries and even Genghis Khan.