From its perch under the Brooklyn Bridge anchorage, River Cafe looks across the East River and scoffs: The view of downtown Manhattan is unforgettable, and with the water lapping gently against the eatery (which is literally in the river), you feel you're in a fairyland. The dining room is all windows and twinkling candlelight, mimicking the lights across the water. This very fancy special-event restaurant is probably the most expensive joint in Brooklyn, but it wears its airs well. The menu drifts toward fussy seafood preparations, without neglecting the kind of variety of fussy meats and fowl a restaurant of its stature must provide. And if you find the menu novel, wait until you see the wine list: It comes in a binder, with over 500 selections. But at least you won't have to do any math, because it's prix-fixe only, with a six-course chef's tasting menu available in addition to the regular three-course option. The Russian caviar service appetizer, however, does come with an extra charge, but if you're at River Cafe in the first place, you're either celebrating or you already eat caviar like Pringles. -- Erin Franzman (Photo: Noah Kalina)