Peasant   

194 Elizabeth St # A
New York, NY 10012
212-965-9511
www.peasantnyc.com

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At once old world and modern, Peasant is an understated fine Italian restaurant in Nolita (just above the Little Italy strip) with a simple and straightforward approach. The goal of the chef-owner -- whose background includes ample stints in Bari, Italy and Manhattan at Le Cirque and Circa -- was to present a bare bones "peasant" approach in both design and dish, described as "cooking with fire." A good idea, since microwaves and panini presses are so last year. The dining room is intimate and rustic, with exposed brick, hanging pots, visible baskets of produce, and an open hearth. The menu is also intimate and rustic, with fresh flavors emanating from regional offerings like bistecca alla fiorentina, razza con capperi, mushroom gnocchi and tripe (the menu is written only in Italian). Tuscan romance and earth smells waft through the air.