Paola's Restaurant   

245 E 84th St
New York, NY 10028
212-794-1890
www.paolarestaurant.com

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Everyone calls Paola's a neighborhood restaurant, suggesting that this two-room culinary spa is a well-kept secret -- not so. But while some restaurants are merely tucked away, Paola's is hard to find; virtually sequestered on an uneventful street and set back dramatically from the curb, the place transports you to Italy's south near the boot for a dip in gastronomic glory. Above all, owner (and chef) Paola Marracino sprinkles her dishes with amore. Pastas are hearty, thick and fresh -- pappardelle, capellini, plus many old favorites -- but then there are some new dance partners to take a spin with too, including pansotti, a filled pasta, and cazunzei, which hails from the north. It gets spectacularly noisy here, but don't hesitate to ask the tireless staff to wax lyrical over the vino for your veal. At the end of the day, a meal at Paola's is a Verdi aria waiting to happen.--Leonard Jacobs