Lentini Restaurant   

1562 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10028
212-628-3131
www.tinirestaurant.com

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Across the street from bustling hotspot Spigolo, a more genteel scene unfolds at Lentini's, where women in fur coats and dungarees dine with distinguished gentlemen to a Sinatra soundtrack. A strong list of rotating specials like grilled fresh sardines complements a surprisingly adventurous menu -- for every baked clams there's a carciofi ripieni, a cake of braised artichoke topped with grilled shrimp and scallops and a delicate puree of fava beans. House-made pappardelle gets a bath of tomato-rich rabbit stew and creamy, piquant gorgonzola oozes from fat rolls of veal cutlet. You'll find no bargains on the all-Italian wine list, which runs to super-Tuscans, but the by-the-glass offerings aren't to be scoffed at, particularly the California viognier. Organ-meat fans may wonder how much calves' liver or tripe the kitchen moves in an average night on the Upper East Side, but by the time the lemon-filled pastry cannoncini or espresso pannacotta arrives, all thought grinds to a sugary halt.