Land Thai Kitchen   

450 Amsterdam Ave # 2
New York, NY 10024
212-501-8121

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Narrow as a hole-in-the-wall, Land Thai manages to avoid a claustrophobic atmosphere with blond interior, high ceilings, and glinting accents, creating a dynamic but serene air where servers buzz behind guests lined up along the wall-length banquette. The name Land is expressive of chef David Bank's use of natural ingredients and love of healthy eating. "Outside-the-city Thai," he calls it. "In Thailand, usually only little meat, but lots of vegetable." Despite his high-profile experience at Mercer Kitchen, Land is casual -- it even offers delivery. When asked how much of his French and Japanese background shows in this menu, he answers shyly, "very little," although pan-seared duck breast with lime-leaf demi-glace certainly isn't plebeian, even if chicken fried rice or pad Thai has humble roots. He acknowledges that technique and skills developed over the years come through to elevate traditional dishes, but not an ounce of pretension accompanies his demeanor or atmosphere of the restaurant, or for that matter, the prices.