This popular West Village staple is a step up from run-of-the-mill New York pizza takeout joints. It boasts a host of simple, thin pizzas (oven-baked in a viewable hearth) as well as other Italian offerings. From the saloon-style doors to the autographed sports memorabilia on the walls to the open-brick oven, you'll know right away you're in for a treat. The portions are definitely hearty: Small pies (14 inches) can easily satisfy a couple, while a large (16 inches) can probably feed a small fraternity. No individual slices are available, but you won't mind once you get a whiff of the fresh garlic or ricotta cheese. Topping selections are few and simple, with black olives being about as adventurous as John's gets. Parm sandwiches, pastas and salads are also available, but the sleeper here is the phenomenal calzone. Beer, soda and a few imported wines make up the beverage list. During the daytime you can get a cozy wooden booth, but in the evenings be prepared to wait on a hungry line. This coal-fired eatery is definitely piping hot. -- Yon Motskin (Photo: Noah Kalina)