Jojo Restaurant   

160 E 64th St
New York, NY 10065
212-223-5656
www.jean-georges.com

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Often referred to as the "enfant terrible of modern French cooking", Jean-Georges Vongerichten is by now one of the most celebrated chefs in the world. Endearingly named what all casual diners wish they could call him, JoJo was the Strasbourg-born boy wonder's first New York flagship, though his empire now includes Vong, Spice Market, V Steak, Jean Georges and 66. But like the ubiquitous uber-chef's fervor inside the kitchen, he also keeps it fresh on the outside; almost a decade after its original opening, the multi-level Upper East Side townhouse has been renovated to more closely resemble the suave and subtle luxury cuisine. Narrow and attractive, the space is ideal for inevitable glitterati people-watching. For an upscale, trend-setting restaurant, the French menu -- which hasn't renovated much -- is marked for its brevity and reasonable price. Simple dishes spring to life with oils and juices, like roast chicken with chickpea fries, salmon, venison and duck breast. No relation to the Beatles song about the man who thought he was a loner, the always-crowded JoJo gets back to where it always belonged -- la creme de la creme.