Jewel Bako   

239 E 5th St
New York, NY 10003
212-979-1012

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Think of this exclusive eatery as that narrow light-at-the-end-of-the-tunnel hallway you walk down before you arrive in sushi heaven -- visually and culinary speaking. Jewel Bako -- which is Japanese-hipster for 'jewel box' -- delivers its first knockout punch with its stunning interior: Tiny and gold, chic downtown diners will feel like they're in a gold-gilded, bamboo subway car time traveling to '2001: A Sushi Odyssey.' Knockdown jab number two in Jack and Grace Lamb's always-busy arrangement is the half-dozen seat sushi bar, manned by expert swordsmen who not only slice and roll fresh fish like ancient samurai, but wax philosophical on any subject to please the sake-drinkers. But the killer is the fish: Over 50 varieties, all beautifully presented and creatively designed. Savory selections like mackerel, toro tuna and live octopus deliver the knockout punch, sending fish aficionados reeling to the streets, desperate for more. -- Yon Motskin