Fiamma   

When it comes to sheer Soho spectacle, Stephen Hanson's your man. The ubiquitous restaurateur has struck gold with numerous upscale Disney-fied eateries (Atlantic Grill, Ruby Foo's, Blue Fin), and Fiamma is a continuation of his magic touch. Like marrying into the Corleone family, eating at this Italian osteria is equal parts elegant, intimidating and likely to take over your life. Three stories of afternoon Tuscan sun-colored wood, light and low-slung atmosphere are kept from fraying by a central chic glass elevator. Private dining rooms, moody nooks and wine bars provide intimacy in an otherwise tremendous 125-seat eatery. Michael White supervises a superior seasonal menu highlighted by loin of lamb wrapped in pancetta, seared big eye tuna and grilled octopus antipasta. Between all the sipping, schmoozing and star sighting, make sure to save room for dolci, or at least those complimentary biscotti you receive once your meal is finished. -- Yon Motskin