Fatty's Cafe   

Just because most Manhattanites are carless doesn't mean that when they visit their hip Astoria friends they have to be barless. That's at least part of the rationale for Fatty's Cafe, the latest upscale eatery to hit this fashion-forward section of Queens. Speaking of fashion, Fatty's is owned by the very svelte Suzanne Furboter -- a former Anne Klein publicist -- and her boyfriend Fernando Pena. Together, they have forged the first genuine Cubano eatery in what used to be the most reliably Greek part of town. But then, shouldn't a neighborhood's culinary choices keep up with its changing demographics? The food here screams yes, from jalapeno turkey burgers and their not-too-burnt snap, crackle and pop, to a thick Cubano sandwich with just enough sauce to keep the palate filled in spices. Wash it down with seriously good lemonade -- or something stronger -- and enjoy a bit of Cuba in Queens. -- Leonard Jacobs