Etats Unis Restaurant   

242 E 81st St
New York, NY 10028
212-517-8826
www.www.etats-unis-ny.com

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When it comes to culinary inspiration, diners at this spare Upper East Side gift box don't have to look very far. Etats-Unis' tiny, elegantly-square dining room seats only about 30 and is clean, sparse and soothing, while the cuisine is a lean and revolving selection of unpretentious American delicacies. But the biggest reason to smile is to see the chef-owner father-son team of Tom and Jonathan Rapp, who ditched architecture and art history careers to open this labor of love. The handsome and inventive menu offers entrees like swordfish, pork chops and made-to-order dry-aged steaks, as well as a fruity dessert menu and smallish but well-chosen wine list, which includes Gallic imports from their wine bar across the street. Despite what the name seems to suggest, there's not that much French about this cozy bistro, unless you count romance, taste and the thrill of an out-of-the-way gem. -- Yon Motskin