Estiatorio Milos Restaurant   

"I mean, souvlaki? Moussaka? It makes me angry," says owner Costas Spiliadis about the popular perception of Greek food. The first Estiatorio Milos opened in Montreal in 1978, and has since become one of Canada's most acclaimed seafood restaurants. He says, "My purpose is to redefine for North Americans their conception of Greek culture through its cuisine." It's a declarative statement that belies his Old World style, which shows itself in his hospitality, as well as the space's simple but effective design. It's reminiscent of an outdoor cafe and mini-marketplace, with all the fish on display whole for customers to choose. A few tall, linen-colored umbrellas subtly complete the effect. The menu is for people truly into the natural flavor and texture of fish, with all fish on the menu (at least 15 different kinds) line-caught, and many served on the bone. There is snapper and sargos from Greece, black sea bass from North Carolina, and Mediterranean bar loup, said to be the most sought-after fish in Europe. A casual atmosphere, a large variety of the freshest fish and friendly social buzz all add up to a mission accomplished. -- Dan Glass