Picky eaters with deep pockets will love the menu at Tom Colicchio's Craft. Diners are invited to create their own dishes by ordering each element of the meal individually, choosing from lists of fish, meat, vegetables, mushrooms, potatoes, grains, beans, condiments and sauces, which are all priced separately. You can have roasted turbot with braised escarole, sauteed yellowfoot mushrooms and truffle jus, or maybe leg of lamb with gnocchi and herb salad is more your style. Everything comes on separate plates so you can mix and match it your way. The concept is to get back to the 'essence' of food, focusing on excellent ingredients and elemental cooking techniques. The atmosphere is soothing: The dining room is lovely, filled with handcrafted furnishings, including ingenious blond wood tables with a special velvet covered panel that pulls out for wine service. However, for civilians, the whole experience is rather exhausting -- and quite expensive. But foodies with OCD love it. -- Gigi Wang