Centrico   

211 W Broadway
New York, NY 10013
212-431-0700
www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com

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Omnipotent restaurateur Drew Nieporent finally spiked Layla, but didn't waste much time replacing it with something new and equally intriguing: Mexican peasant food, fancified for the Tribeca nouveaux riche. Ex-Food Network "Melting Pot" chef Aaron Sanchez does it right, branching out from his other joints (Paladar and Mixx) with a menu featuring oysters with salsa, bean-stuffed boats of fried plaintains topped with fresh cream, grilled adobo-rubbed steaks sided with sauteed cactus pieces -- minus the thorns, hopefully -- and slow-roasted suckling pig with garlic and bitter orange. His aim: To introduce you to pretty much all of Mexico's 32 different states, some of which (Michoacan or Jaliscan cooking, anyone?) he's pretty sure you've never heard of. The columns of bamboo, high ceilings and open kitchen are mere window dressing for the Sanchez way: pile on a side like grilled corn spiked with chili-lime butter or sauteed hominy, fire up a cacao bean taco with spicy mango sorbet for dessert, and you're in business, hombre.