If you're trying to maximize your see-and-be-seen quotient, you'll be hard-pressed not to get off the boat and dive into this Union Square haven. With the wafts of jazz music still singing staccato in the air, this beautifully preserved former bank interior has empowering columns, multi-level seating and a raw bar that is as popular for its oyster selection as it is for its good-looking bar scene. As you guessed by the name, the menu's common denominator is seafood, and what a catch it is. There's fresh sushi a la carte, pan-roasted pacific mahimahi with lobster mashed potatoes and Moroccan-spiced red snapper that would leave even a Cape Cod fisherman's fin wagging. Stephen Hanson's chic love boat -- uptown siblings include Ocean Grill and Atlantic Grill -- is the place to dock, especially for weekend brunches, when all the kiss-kiss passengers sip cocktails on the outdoor patio and people-watch overboard. And all that (live) jazz. -- Yon Motskin (Photo: Noah Kalina)