Blair Perrone Steakhouse   

885 2nd Ave
New York, NY 10017
212-796-8000
www.blairperrone.com

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Peter Luger continues to rear beefy babies. Charlie Blair and Joe Perrone, former heavyweights from the champion steakhouse (and its protege, MarkJoseph's), run this mammoth meatery. Connoisseurs of the cow, these guys know how to lasso their target audience and make them salivate on their suspenders. The space is sprawling -- it takes as long to walk here from Grand Central as it does from one end to the other of the block-long, 14,000-square-foot restaurant, whose two-story ceiling is propped up by tan walls, tall windows, and rich wood paneling. Before you even get to the steak -- and you will -- stop by the bar, which is stockpiled with thirty single-malt scotches. The porterhouse in question does not disappoint -- it's a portly, prime-aged piece of dry beef, a sizzling slab that is rich, flavorful, and dripping with cartoonish delight. There are others, like a bone-in rib-eye, Dover sole and live lobster, as well as the usual potato and spinach sides, but you are here for one reason only. It's worth mentioning that the floor is carpeted, in case you have to crawl on your way out.