The very model of a West Village pizza joint, this tiny cornerside establishment is loaded with old-world charm and perfumed with the unmistakable aroma of coal-fired ovens. Pies here are designed to reward the purist -- they're thin, extremely crispy and best ordered with mozzarella and tomato sauce alone. (If you're looking for cheesy slabs of toasted Wonder Bread, there's probably an Uno nearby.) Pasta dishes, garlic bread and steamed mussels are also on offer, but it's the pizza that packs 'em in, along with weekend jam sessions anchored by a tight little house band. Waits of up to half an hour are common, so grab a beer at the bar and make the best of the situation. -- Jacob Levich