36 Bar and Barbecue   

5 W 36th St
New York, NY 10018
212-563-3737

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Half the fun and satisfaction of a meal, maybe even three-quarters of it, is making the food yourself. A night out used to be considered a relief because you didn't have to cook; but at 36-92, the Korean restaurant in the garment district, grilling the grub on the tableside griddle is a grand treat. The menu is somewhat small on selection but big on taste, including excellent short ribs, briskets, casseroles and potted seafood and chicken and of course, steamed rice and bean curd stews. As is custom, the more-than-reasonably priced dishes come in various echelons of spicy: very, ultra and only-for-locals. The sleek, industrial, Philip Starck-ish interior is hardly noticeable through the wafts of BBQ smoke and clamor of chatter visibly echoing in the intimate setting, but with seared beef sirloin this good, does it really matter? -- Yon Motskin